This 12th scale Violin kit comes in 4 sections; the back, front, chin rest and bow. it is very easy to assemble but if you wish to 'string' the violin it is relatively easy if you use a needle and fine cotton thread.

I do not have instructions for the 'stringing' but here is how I did it:

Cut 4 lengths of fine thread (brown or black).
Thread each one up through the hole at the bottom of the vioin front and then through the rear of the chin rest and out through the front of the chin rest. Each thread will need to pass through a different hole - there are 4 in total.
Glue the threads to the rear of the violin front to secure them and then pull the threads across the front of the violin travelling over the bridge (the sticking up bit) so they splay evenly. Thread the 4 threads through the top hole at the top of the violin keys and out through the back. Glue them down and cut off excess. If you wish you could glue each thread to each key! To thread them through the hole at the top I used a thread threader but a fine piece of wire folded and pushed from the back to the front of the hole would work - you then thread the thread through the metal loop and then drawer back the metal loop through the hole taking the cotton thread with it.

NOTES

As with all my metal designs the pieces will require a little cleaning using a file and/or sandpaper. The metal is very soft so this is a simple and satifying part of the build process.

I tend to use superglue (Hafixx being my favoured choice) with a super glue activator to speed things up.

To paint the item I strongly recommend a metal primer. Spray primers are the easiest and just a light coat with give the paint something to 'key' with......then the choice is yours. I use all types of paints from acrylics to cellulose spray paints. All have their own merits and so I choose according to the finish I wish to create.

After applying my coats of paint I will always add an aging layer of raw umber acrylic (water it down and then paint and wipe off to leave the dark paint in the recesses). Aging can be very rewarding and there are many options for this. One little recommendation is to use rotten stone/pumice stone powder to add what I like to describe as "dust" to the piece. It is a powder and will always be a powder unless mixed with a binder such as glue. The powder is a soft grey and if it is brished on then off it will leave a slight dusting in the recesses of the design.

A final flourish of splatter (very subtle brown/grey applied with by splattering the paint from a bristled brush such as a toothbrush) adds a little more interest.

Violin and bow ADM103

£7.70

Excluding VAT

Quantity

Always prime metal using a spray metal primer available online in most countries. I use Rust-oleum.

Spray paints: I tend to use platikote and rust-oleum but there are many other brands who sell similar products. In the UK you can pick them up in B&Q but also available in abundance online. The choices are huge but my all time favorite colour is Rust-oleum Hessian. It is a taupe and works well if you are looking for a old heavy brown cream finish.

Paints: use almost anything - emulsion (wall paint - sample pots are cheap), acrylic, oils (generally you will get a sheen). Alway use a fine brush and dont apply too much - you can always add layers which look better than clumpy thick layers.

Make your own paints using https://www.cornelissen.com/pigments-gums-and-resins.html then add a binder such as glue or wax.

Gold and silver: Gold leaf but also gold particles suspended in a medium suitable for painting etc. This is a huge area and so I will offer a few of my favorites:

Spray gold - lots of choice online

If you plan to use gold leaf or Dutch metal (a cheaper and easier to use alternative) then paint the item red or yellow. This will show through the cracks and add depth.

You will need to use Gold leaf "size" when applying leaf - its a sticky glue that doesnt stop being sticky

I like Polyurethane gold - its easy to apply and you can wash brushes in water but its hard to source and will go off after a few years. I buy mine from "Bristol paints" https://www.bristolpaint.com/metallic/polyurethane

Some links to gold and silver finishes that I would recommend -

Connoissier https://www.jacksonsart.com/brands/connoisseur

https://www.croberson.co.uk/product-sections/roberson-gilding-materials.html

https://www.robersonliquidmetal.co.uk/

https://www.tiranti.co.uk/Products/gold-leaf

https://www.modernmasters.com/landing/homeowners/brands/mpc

https://www.bristolpaint.com/metallic/acrylic

https://www.bristolpaint.com/metallic/polyurethane

for people in the USA: https://sculptnouveau.com/products/metal-coatings

Of course you can make your own! Use bronze powder which is available in silver, gold, brass, bronze etc colours. Add this to wax or a glue so that it has a binder. If there are any salts in the glue then you will see your gold oxidise!

Varnish?

I love to use wax on some items as the sheen is soft and it gives a classic patina.

Spray varnish - polyeurethane can go yellow!

Brushed on varnish such as modge podge is great and comes in different sheen levels.
I always use a cyano type glue which most of us know this as super glue. My favourite is Haffix https://www.hafixs.co.uk/onlinestore/RCshop.html

If you are looking for a thicker super glue then try Deluxe although I warn you that their website is beyond tempting! https://deluxematerials.co.uk/collections/cyanoacrylates/products/roket-cyano-gel

I also use a superglue activator of which there are many to choose from but here is a link to one of them: https://www.buildandplumb.co.uk/building-supplies-c21/sealants-tapes-adhesives-c228/adhesives-glue-c231/bond-it-clear-cyanoacrylate-accelerator-p12994/s35830?utm_medium=organic&utm_term=bond-it-clear-cyanoacrylate-accelerator-400ml-size-400ml-size-400ml-646857&utm_campaign=froogle&cid=GBP&glCurrency=GBP&glCountry=GB

Activator and superglue are available online and you can find different brands that are cheaper but for me the above tend to be my go to reliable brands.

Please also note that despite superglue setting super fast it actually can take a day or two to fully cure so be gentle with your model!
Most of my kits are self explanatory but where the kit is complex I usually add the directions to the listing on the website. If there are none then it means the item is fairly straight forward to assemble.

You may find a few hints and tips in the main description of the item.

Before gluing I strongly recommend checking each section for casting spurs - these are little bits of metal left over from the casting process. They can be snapped or cut off or filed. Each design has its own little casting spur etc but sometimes these are hardly noticeable.
This is OK to do and therefore you would need to choose free carriage on your second order assuming that it was not too large. I will then combine both in one delivery.

I combine orders when I print them. I usually spot them but occassionally customers may order using different names (eg their husbands account and their own account) - I wont spot these so please email me if there could be any confusion.
SPAIN & ITALY & ISRAEL & GREECE - please only choose tracking as we have many issues with parcels going missing. We can not post to these countries unless tracking is chosen.

International: If you wish to have tracking then this is an option at check out. Unfortunately our post office system does not email you with updates and the tracking number. However I shall have your tracking details and should you require them please let me know and I can email them to you.

UK: We send using MYHERMES / EVRI. They are reliable and on each delivery the courier will photograph an image of the delivery address as proof of postage. Since introducing this system it is rare that a parcel goes missing. You should also receive emailed updates as to the progress of your parcel.